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Turkish Travel Blog

It is not often that I get the chance to see  and take pictures of the rich and famous stars of Turkey however last night, I was treated to front row seats at a concert by Hande Yener and had a fantastic opportunity to snap the photos included in this post.  Hande Yener  is a woman with status who oozes talent and captivates everyone that crosses her path.

She is a famous Turkish Pop singer that is often compared to Madonna for two simple reasons.  With every album that she releases, there is obvious experimentation with new styles, vibes and rhythms. Her eagerness to explore and push the boundaries in the field of Turkish pop music has paid off, earning her an amazing 17 million sales of her records around the world.

Along with the new music, comes a fresh look and style to her  public  image, hence the comparison to Madonna. Changing your image with every new album worked wonders for Madonna and this technique has also made Hande Yener, one of the top female Turkish pop stars.

Hande Yener has been credited with a number of awards and honors when it comes to the Turkish pop music scene so when I got the chance to attend one of her concerts, I was of course, delighted. She was appearing at the Venosa Beach Resort in Didim and listening to her in real life, only proves the certainty that she is a natural born entertainer.

Her looks, her style, her voice and the way that the camera instantly falls in love with her, explain why she has amassed a huge fan base of followers both young and old.  I hope you like my favorite photos in black and white  that I took at  the concert last night.  I think they show her amazing talent to perform to the masses.

If you want to hear the music of Hande Yener, , just press play on the You Tube video below. Many thanks to Venosa Beach Resort for the evening, it was absolutely wonderful.

Turkish Travel Blog – A Travel Blog About Turkey

Turkish Travel Blog

Ramadan is a religious period of time that tests the strength, determination and goodwill of Muslim men and women all over the land. Mortal souls that follow the religion of Islam  put themselves through the ultimate endurance test by abstaining from food, drink and intimate contact during the hours of daylight.

The rays of the hot sun beat down on their tired bodies making their brows drip fiercely with sweat as they try to go about the mundane routines of day to day living.  Their dry throats desperately need a glass of ice -cold water and they try to ignore the growling hunger pains that are lingering in their empty bellies.

They do not give into the temptation of pleasure for the body until the sun disappears and the skies are dark. Their minds are focused on pure thoughts, self-discipline and empathy for those in poverty who have no choice but to live like this,  every day of their lives.

The Ramadan period in 2011 started on the 1^st of August and those of you who walk streets trying to spot the people of Turkey  who have volunteered for a month of self-cleansing and religious reflection may be disappointed.

The Turks are not vocal about their choice to fast. They complete it with dignity and a silence that builds a wall around them, keeping them safe from impure thoughts, words and actions. To gain an understanding of this practice that is accused by some of being outdated and unhealthy, you would have to wake before the hours of dawn or in my case, live with someone who views Ramadan as his opportunity to get closer to the Almighty.

It is actually known as Ramazan in Turkey but that makes little difference as to what happens in one of the most important events in the Islamic calendar.  My husband is fasting and the past three weeks have seen some obstacles arise. These obstacles which occur every year during Ramadan, no longer test the strength of our marriage. We have been there and done it, and any change to our routines is old hat.

Ramadan in 2011 – The Dilemma I Faced

Ramadan is not a set calendar date. It comes early every year by ten days. The result is that in 2011, it has fallen within one of the hottest months of the year. My husband also works in a restaurant and this is one of the busiest months when he will cater for hundreds of hungry tourists that are eager to consume English breakfasts, hamburgers for lunch and juicy steaks for dinner.

This is not the winter months when the hours of daylight are shorter and very few tourists trickle through the door of the restaurant. This is different, the stakes are higher and the goal posts have moved.

I asked my husband to abstain this year, offering money to charities instead as a penance for not completing the fast. However I knew the answer would be “no” all along.  My worries about the heat and the long days would have to take a back seat.

I had no worries about his health or mental well-being. This is because he has fasted every year since he made the transformation from a boy to a man. The ability to undergo this test of strength is firmly ingrained into his character and lifestyle.

Waiting for the Side Effects – The Bad Moods

After being married for five years, I can spot instantly when the side effects of fasting start to take place. Fatigue is one of them and this in turn lead to bad moods. Patiently I ignored them along with the long periods of silence. At his work, all the tourists saw the smiling face that jokes with them and ensures their holiday is one that they enjoy.

At home, my husband felt comfortable enough to take the mask off and bring the feelings of hunger and thirst up to the surface. While, I wanted to support him in this time of self-reflection, there was a need to say something to prevent the situation getting even worse. From experience in past years, words said in the heat of a moment only leads way to bad vibes at a time when calm and peace are required. A couple of quiet words and reflection soon solved this problem.

Next Comes The Bad Breath

After spending eleven years in Turkey, I can normally spot someone who is fasting after speaking a couple of words with them because 99.9% of the time they will have bad breath. What can you do? Nothing, it is more polite just to ignore it.

The Lost Friendship

Not all Turks will spend the month fasting. It is a personal decision which sees no consequences if they don’t.  Over the years though, I have noticed that some Turks who are not fasting seem to be more vocal about Ramadan  than the Turks that simply want to keep their heads down and complete this period of reflection without drama.

One close Turkish friend who is an atheist decided to launch unexpectedly into a  serious ranting and raving session about the stupidity of Ramadan and the damage that can be caused to people’s health.

Considering that Ramadan had no effect on her life what so ever, I was rather bemused by her words and intrigued as to what had caused this sudden outburst.  I never discovered as the conversation was cut short when she overstepped the mark in order to justify her hatred of Islam. She had called my husband “stupid” for fasting and along with the end of the conversation; our friendship reached a point beyond repair.

Why Didn’t I take Part in Ramadan?

The conversation this year was the same as it is every year. I get asked if I will be “holding the fast ” and my answer is no. The same people then ask if hubby is fasting and my response is pretty much the same as “do fish swim in the sea?”

They are bemused as to how two people can live in the same house but only one of them will fast. Don’t get me wrong, I have been there and tried it but my soul and mind is one of the weaker kinds when temptation will take over in the darkest moment.

I would only hamper my husband in his fast, with moans that would describe my hunger and thirst pains in-depth. I am not strong willed when it comes to abstaining from alcohol and nicotine, so abstaining from food and drink would turn me into a nervous wreck.

The month of Ramadan is not an easy task and I fully admit that I have neither the strength nor dedication to do it. Instead I make conscious efforts to support my husband by avoiding reference to food, drink or personal contact within the hours of daylight.

So on the 29^th of August, the last day of fasting will fall upon us. We will then embark on three days of celebration called Seker Bayram or the Sugar holiday. Thoughts of Ramadan will be placed to the back of my mind…until 2012 when we do it all again.

Turkish Travel Blog – A Travel Blog About Turkey

Turkish Travel Blog

Zoo animals are a great way to get behind the lens of a camera and practice your photography skills. In my last article, I discussed my reason for visiting Izmir Zoo and Wildlife Park and that was to answer if  animals  should be kept in zoos? However I did not realize until I arrived at my chosen destination,  that the zoo animals and landscapes made it the perfect place to tone up and hone in on my photography skills. This article is to showcase a few of the pictures that I managed to capture.

Izmir Zoo and Wildlife Park has over 1200 wild and tame animals including mammals, birds, reptiles and endangered species such as the Asian elephant. To be able to watch these animals as they went about their daily life was absolutely amazing and the animals became the perfect photo subject. That day, I took over 300 photos and I will admit that many have been trashed but every so often, I was surprised at the image that I managed to capture.

As soon as you enter the zoo, you are given a detailed map and then you can start exploring and observing a wide range of zoo animals that include but are not limited to…

-          Birds of prey and birds from the forests of Africa

-          Giraffes, zebras, hippopotamus and ostriches

-          Camels, red deer,  gazelle and elephants

-          Bears, wolfs, hyena, monkeys, tigers and lions

-          The tropical centre which features crocodiles, insects and snakes

My zoom lens was not powerful enough

I did not realize exactly how much space the zoo animals were given in Izmir Wildlife Park and at times my zoom lens let me down. The animals had large enclosures and during the mid-day heat, tended to gather for shade under trees that were far off in the distance. If you decide to head to Izmir zoo to practice your photography skills, make sure you have a good zoom lens.

Seems like Izmir Zoo is a haven for photographers

As well as watching the zoo animals, I came across photographers who had zoom lenses longer than my forearm and so many camera accessories that I looked down at my little Fuji camera and blushed with embarrassment. Yes, I suffered from the “You have a bigger camera than me” syndrome but I decided instead to embrace this opportunity and I spent a lot of time watching the experts while in awe. I am quite sure they assumed they had picked up a solo female stalker!

How to get to Izmir Zoo

Make your way to Izmir central bus station and from there catch a bus to Karsiyaka, then hop onto the 777 bus to Sasali. Alternatively, if there is a large group of you, catch a taxi from the bus station to minimize traveling time. If you are in any of the coastal resorts near Izmir, speak to a local tour provider to find out if they can organize a private bus and tour.

Turkish Travel Blog – A Travel Blog About Turkey

Turkish Travel Blog

I recently spent a lot of time thinking about the question of “should animals be kept in Zoos?” I was prompted to ponder this topical debate subject after discussing Izmir zoo with a few friends.  These friends stated strongly that they would not accompany me on the two hour journey to Izmir, because they viewed zoos as cruel establishments that had no place on the face of the earth.

However the truth is there are many zoos around the world that are both a touristic and local attraction. Marketed as a family day out, it is a chance for people to see animals that they  will never ever see again in their life time. Naming a few animals, it is safe to say that ferocious lions, cute cuddly bears, a lazy hippopotamus and a cheeky monkey all combine to form one of the most controversial subjects that exist today.

Should Animals Be Kept in Zoos? – Case Study of Izmir Zoo

Previously, I could never answer this question fully as I have never walked the path that led me to enter a zoo. However, despite a lack of enthusiasm from my friends, I decided to visit Izmir Zoo on my own and therefore gain a true understanding of what my stance on the subject would be.

The first aspect to note about Izmir Zoo is that it goes to great lengths to be known as a wildlife park. This stance blends in with the revamp that the zoo had in 2008 following severe criticism of the conditions that animals had been kept in since the zoo opened in 1936. Previous reports stated that animals were kept in cramped conditions, were dirty and their health was not considered a priority.  The new wildlife park focuses on large amounts of space for the animals as well as top quality care and attention to their needs.

Well, there is no better proof than living proof and while at Izmir zoo, I spent a lot of time trying to analyze each animal that I came across. You might be laughing now wondering how a small town girl can call herself an expert on animal behavior however I just went with my gut feeling, watching their behavior, trying to make eye contact and analyzing any reactions to human contact.

The smaller animals seemed to fare quite well. Swans, chipmunks, ducks, tortoises  and goats were happily going about their business ignoring the traffic passing by.

The larger animals seemed to go quietly about their business but the animal that caught my attention was the adult elephant that seemed to be pacing up and down out of boredom. This is understandable because even though the park has given the elephants massive amounts of green space to themselves, in the wild they are used to hundreds and hundreds of miles that become their domain.  The equivalent would be like placing a human under house arrest.

The more dangerous animals like lions and tigers are also given their own large enclosures and people can view them from behind a glass screen. Their focus on that day was on keeping out of the sun by lying under shady trees and Izmir zoo is very much backing the stance that if you do not get to see an animal then you should return at a different time. They are not forcing the animals into any ridiculous side shows involving party tricks and silly costumes.

Animals aside, the park does give a lot of information to visitors about the animal that they are seeing and two days within a week are dedicated to educational tours for children. This is to describe the traits, natural habitat and eating routines of an animal.  It is quite plain to see that the park aims to keep its animals in the best conditions possible however this does not distract from the moral and ethically question of “Should animals should be kept in Zoos?”

Should Animals be Kept in Zoos? – The Pros

*There are more chances of endangered species surviving due to no natural threat

* Scientists can study diseases that kill species and invent cures

*In a world, where nature and lands are being destroyed it gives the animals a safe haven

*People can see animals that they will probably never see again in their life time

*It is a great way to educate children that we are not the only inhabitants of the planet

Should Animals be Kept in Zoos? – The Cons

*Larger species can feel confined about the lack of space

*It enforces the belief that animals do not have rights

*There is the chance that some Zoos will not place the animal’s well-being before profit.

*Some species do not adapt as well to captivity as other species.

*Studying an animal in captivity is not the same as studying them in their natural environment.

Should Animals Be Kept in Zoos? – My Conclusion

I really do believe that this question cannot be answered with YES or NO. For every positive reason to keep animals in zoos there is a negative reason and vice versa.

In the case of Izmir zoo, there is also the question of the baby elephant called Izmir. She was born into captivity and any suggestion to release her into the wild would probably result in her death due to a lack of life skills.

There will always be two camps when it comes to zoos. The people that believe Zoos are good for science, nature and to gain an understanding of the creatures that we share our planet with. Then there are those who believe zoos should be banned and animals should be released.

In my experience, Izmir zoo is caring for the wild life in the best way possible and I saw no signs of cruelty. For the sake of science, education and a better understanding of the creatures that stand on this planet with me, I have to place myself in the camp that says “Yes, animals should be kept in zoos”

What do you think?

Turkish Travel Blog – A Travel Blog About Turkey

Turkish Travel Blog

The recent riots and looting in the UK have made me think a lot about crime in Turkey. I was mainly spurred on by listening to all the comments flowing from the lips of irate British ex-pats and holiday makers who were watching television to see their home towns descend into anarchy and chaos. I heard the following comments more than once…

“The Turkish police would not put up with that nonsense”

“I can tell you now that the Turkish police would beat the s*** out of them”

Now it would be a mistake to think that rioting does not happen here in Turkey because it does. Occasionally, peaceful demonstrations in large cities get out of hand and there are many occasions when I have picked up the newspaper to read stories of rioting in towns like Diyarbakir.

However the major difference is there is an unwritten rule that you do not s*** on your own doorstep. Yes, riots in Turkey are so dignified that you aim for the police, their vehicles and nothing else. If you start damaging and looting people’s homes or business, you better have a miraculous ability to wake up the next morning with a new face and identity.

The Turkish Police

The main conversations in the ex-pat community were comparing the Turkish police with the British. In these conversations, the Turkish police were suddenly elevated to this status of super gods and anyone would think that crime in Turkey did not exist.  Now, I have to admit that I have never been a hard core supporter of the Turkish police. This would date back to memories of overinflated speeding tickets, domestic violence against women that was ignored and a general attitude of “do as I say and not as I do”.

The Turkish police however do live up to the typical stereotyped role and not many people would like to cross swords with them. Crime in Turkey overall is relatively low however in the big cities like Istanbul; pickpocketing of tourists is rife and in my own town of Altinkum, burglaries stats have gone through the roof.  Criminals will struck when opportunity lets them and no “Rambo” stereotyping of the police force can prevent that.

But in Turkey, It Is Not About The Police

It would be a mistake to think that the low crime in Turkey is purely down to the police force because it is not. The low crime is because of culture and society.  Generally, there are three things that are at the heart of every Turkish community

*Pride

*Families

*Livelihood

If you try to threaten any of the above, then you are forewarned that you have made enemies for life. I do not know many Turkish people who would call the police if they felt an intrusion into their lives by someone intent on damaging and destroying any three of the above key elements. They would deal with it in their own way.

In the case of the Turkish shopkeepers in Hackney who defended their shops against looters, their livelihoods were threatened and this would have a knock on effect on their family’s well-being and ultimately their pride.

The Fine Line Between Defending Your Property and Vigilante Action

In my first year of living in Turkey, I learned harshly that the police  do not rule the streets and sometimes defending your property can develop into an incident much worse.  I had settled in the tourist, coastal resort of Marmaris and was a witness to an incident that has stayed with me to this day. A man had lifted an item from a shop without paying for it. Five shopkeepers were chasing him down the street; they caught him and gave him the kicking of his life. You might say “Bravo” because after all, he was a thief.

I say different because I looked at the soles of that man’s shoes as they were hanging off. I saw his unwashed skin and his tattered and old clothing. The man was on the poverty line and for all I know was stealing to provide for his family. The loud cracking sound that I heard was explained to me as the sound of his skull cracking. That is one memory that I have from my time in Marmaris and eleven years later, I still cannot get it out of my head.

So What is The Answer to the UK Riots?

There isn’t one particular answer. As an expat in Turkey, it is easy to sit in a bar, drink ice cold beer and declare the answer to the UK riots as bad policing and not enough power. However when people are in power, there is always a small element that will abuse that power for their own means. Be careful what you wish for.

While ordering your second ice cold beer, it is easy to suggest that people need to start becoming vigilantes. Vigilante action is often powered by anger and the need for revenge which can sometimes leads to actions that are far much harsher than the crime that has been committed.

Can an honest decent citizen who has performed an act of horrific violence because of rage honestly look back in later years and express no remorse? Yes, by all means defend your property and your family, but do not be under the illusion that you won’t unconsciously cross that fine line in the heat of the moment.

Picture Taken From The Daily Mail

Crime in Turkey

I am not under the illusion that Turkey is sown up lock, stock and barrel when it comes to crime, but I do know that I feel a lot safer on the streets of Turkey than I ever felt in the UK. You will never see looting and crime in Turkey on the grand scale that we have just seen in the UK, because there are unwritten rules firmly engrained into society and communities and these rules revolve around pride, families and livelihoods. Throw a little bit of respect into the mixture along with a sense of community spirit and everyone is prepared to deal with the tough times without turning on their own.

Turkish Travel Blog – A Travel Blog About Turkey

Turkish Travel Blog

I was out and about doing a bit of sightseeing.  The heat of the mid-day sun was blaring down on me and I had walked many miles which made me develop a large appetite and extreme thirst

As I was on my own, I felt  self-conscious and was glad to find a café that was not crowded. I ordered a donor kebab, a can of coke and sat down to enjoy my meal which I believed that I thoroughly deserved.

I was looking forward to eliminating the hunger pains and continuing the day.  Then the sequence of events started…

I was being watched. I looked around and this was the culprit

He also had an accomplice

They were staring at my Donor Kebab

I offered them  breadcrumbs but it was not enough

I did not worry. I felt confident that my lunch was safe as wild birds never come near humans. Wrong!

The moment I put my sandwich down, the gang swooped. They wanted all of it and anything less would not suffice.

Sure, I could of got the sandwich back but would you want it back after six birds had tramped through the filling?

Turkish Travel Blog – A Travel Blog About Turkey

Turkish Travel Blog

Miletus is just one of many ancient ruin sites that I have been exploring lately on the Aegean Coast of Turkey. I can say that after viewing the magnificent ruins of Ephesus, all the other ancient-ruin sites have paled in comparison however I was impressed by Miletus. It has an aura around it that leaves you feeling it is hiding so many secrets from the past.

In its prime, it was a bustling ancient Greek city that actually was a sea trading port. Fast forward thousands of years and the sea eventually subsided; the city was inland and Miletus lay in ruins.  Like so many other relics from the past it is slowly being rebuilt by archaeologists. The result is that we now have a tourist attraction that is definitely worth a visit.

The main focus is the theater which was probably used for gladiators who took great delight in slaughtering each other to death. However the best thing about Miletus is that you can actually walk through the passage ways that lay under the seating area of the main theater.

Steps lead up the semi-circle arena and I could not help but stand there and wonder if senators, gladiators, prisoners or slaves appeared at the top of these stairs to the loud roar of the crowd. I have to mention prisoners or slaves because in the passage ways are cells that make you wonder of the horrors that Miletus has been the host of.

Entrance to Miletus is just 10TL and you only need a morning to fully explore it. You could quite easily tag it onto a day trip and explore the nearby ruins of Apollo temple or Priene. Across from the theater are traditional restaurants and the official souvenir shop. My recommendation is that if you are in the area, Miletus is a site that must be seen.

(Foot note- I previously published a picture of Miletus under the name of Miletos. It appears that there are two spellings for the name however the most popular one seems to be Miletus and Wikipedia is also using this version, therefore I will be using this version as well)

Turkish Travel Blog – A Travel Blog About Turkey